tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-19121570289830753002024-03-13T07:11:27.228-07:00This Old SpoonNotes For MyselfSpoon (Jim Lind)http://www.blogger.com/profile/01802214706659967893noreply@blogger.comBlogger84125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1912157028983075300.post-88795004303488134642023-09-11T18:31:00.001-07:002023-09-11T18:31:11.691-07:00Updated Terminal Setup<p> I used to think I knew what I was doing. I thought using <i>Fish</i> as my Terminal was the right choice because people said it was "Mac-like" or whatever. For what I do day-to-day doesn't matter that much so it really just adds complexity because nobody gives examples in for <i>Fish</i> really at all and it means I have to build things myself. So I'm switching to <i>Zsh</i>.</p><p></p><ul style="text-align: left;"><li>Install <a href="https://iterm2.com" target="_blank">iTerm</a>. I haven't found any reason to try anything else. Download it from their website. That's how they want you to consume it.</li><li>It already comes defaulting to <i>Zsh</i> so you shouldn't have to do anything. Use " > echo $0 " to confirm the shell you are using.</li><li>Install <a href="https://brew.sh">Homebrew</a> so you can get all the good linux things you need. Copy/paste the curl command and let it ride. Trust the systems.</li><li>You need Git because everything else uses it so get it early. " > brew install git " and celebrate.</li><li>Install <a href="https://ohmyz.sh/#install" target="_blank">Oh My Zsh</a> by copy/pasting the curl command.</li><li>Download and install the Hack Nerd Font from <a href="https://www.nerdfonts.com/font-downloads" target="_blank">Nerd Fonts</a>. There isn't an easy way to get this from Homebrew yet so sticking to direct downloads is the most reliable. Installing </li><li>Edit the iTerm Profile so it uses the new Font. Bump the size up to 14. Set the color scheme to "Smoooooth<i>".</i></li><li>Update your ~/.zshrc file to use the <a href="https://github.com/ohmyzsh/ohmyzsh/wiki/Themes#clean">clean</a> Zsh theme.</li></ul><div>I think that's it. My terminal is ready to rock and roll.</div><p></p>Spoon (Jim Lind)http://www.blogger.com/profile/01802214706659967893noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1912157028983075300.post-41455827133728668832020-09-06T20:54:00.004-07:002020-09-06T20:54:37.089-07:00Macvlan bridge STILL doesn't work for Wifi<p>Got my new Raspberry Pi 4 and I installed the 64-bit Raspberry Pi OS and was playing with Docker.</p><p>I was having problems getting macvlan working. I struggled. I reinstalled. Nothing seemed to work. On a whim I looked to see if this might just be a problem with me experimenting with bare bones installs so googled a couple things and found the Blog from Barry Kauler titled <a href="https://bkhome.org/news/201811/macvlan-bridge-does-not-work-for-wifi.html">Macvlan bridge does not work for wifi</a>. Sure enough. If you try and share the connection with wlan0 instead of eth0 it just doesn't work.</p><p>So I plugged it in and forced it to use eth0 and sure enough now everything works as expected. </p><p>Thanks Barry!</p>Spoon (Jim Lind)http://www.blogger.com/profile/01802214706659967893noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1912157028983075300.post-49125002484530716802020-09-05T10:21:00.005-07:002020-09-05T10:22:44.596-07:00Update Firmware on Prusa MK2 through MK3S from OctoPrint/OctoPi<p style="text-align: left;">The tools and instructions that Prusa gives you to update your firmware are really good unless your printer is attached to a remote Linux box then it's a little problematic. So here you go. This is pretty barebones because it is written for me.</p><h4 style="text-align: left;">Required Reading:</h4><p>Your printer is probably on /dev/ttyACM0 but if it isn't it should really matter. The system should work anyway because it is preselected.</p><p>The official tooling is really just a wrapper around AVRDUDE so doing it on your own shouldn't make you nervous.</p><p>The control unit on the MK2, MK2S, MK2.5, MK2.5S, MK3 and MK3S are all based on the ATmega2560.</p><p><b>Instructions: </b></p><p style="text-align: left;">SSH into your OctoPrint box and install AVRDUDE. Probably <u>sudo apt install avrdude</u> but depending on your OS it might be different. You'll want to know the exact path of your install so <u>which avrdude</u> will give you that info. </p><p style="text-align: left;">Using the <u>Plugin Manager</u> in OctoPrint install <u>Firmware Updater</u>. It is an officially supported plugin so it is easy to find it.</p><p style="text-align: left;">After OctoPrint forces a restart open up the Firmware Updater plugin and click the wrench inside the plugin box to configure the plugin. Enter the data below and hit <u>Save</u>.</p><p style="text-align: left;"></p><ul style="text-align: left;"><li>Flash Method: avrdude</li><li>AVR MCU: ATmega2650</li><li>Path to avrdude: /usr/bin/avrdude (that's probably what it is, but step 1 would confirm)</li><li>AVR Programming Type: wiring</li></ul><p style="text-align: left;">Go download the firmware for your printer here. The download is pretty big because it contains multilingual instructions that you are going to ignore. <a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/drivers/">https://www.prusa3d.com/drivers/</a></p><p></p><div style="text-align: left;">Extract the <u>prusa3d_fw_ABC_123.hex</u> file some where you can find it and using the Firmware Updater plugin hit that <u>Browse</u> button to locate your hex file and the <u>Flash From File</u> button to finalize things.</div>Spoon (Jim Lind)http://www.blogger.com/profile/01802214706659967893noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1912157028983075300.post-27515269737516872382020-08-14T16:14:00.001-07:002020-08-14T16:14:07.338-07:00My Mac Terminal Setup (Homebrew, iTerm2, Fish, )<p>I did this twice in 2 weeks, so I've got a feel for what I like now and the least sucky way to do it. If I did it more often I'd probably write a script for it, but since I don't plan to do this for another 2 years here's a quick blog. Including sources so that if things change you can find them yourself and you don't have to trust this blog.</p><p>First install <b>brew</b> because having a *nix computer without up to date versions of things sucks. (<a href="https://brew.sh">source</a>)</p><p></p><blockquote>/bin/bash -c "$(curl -fsSL https://raw.githubusercontent.com/Homebrew/install/master/install.sh)"</blockquote><p>Now install <b>iTerm2</b> because even if you don't end up using it's features you might some day so you may as well use it instead of the default terminal. (<a href="https://formulae.brew.sh/cask/iterm2">source</a>)</p><p></p><blockquote>brew cask install iterm2 </blockquote><p><i>iTerm2 should be in your Applications folder, open it up as your new terminal. </i></p><p>Now install <b>fish</b> because it's the shell script that makes the most sense to me. It comes configured out of the box closer to what I want so I use it. (<a href="https://fishshell.com">source</a>)</p><p></p><blockquote>brew install fish</blockquote><p>Now add fish to your list of allowable shells and make fish your default shell.</p><p></p><blockquote><p>echo "/usr/local/bin/fish" | sudo tee -a /etc/shells</p><p>chsh -s /usr/local/bin/fish</p></blockquote><p></p><p>I don't know if I have enough of an opinion to care, but <a href="https://github.com/oh-my-fish/oh-my-fish">Oh My Fish</a> and <a href="https://github.com/jorgebucaran/fisher">Fisher</a> are both ways to get more out of fish. I installed Oh My Fish because it seemed to be the thing more people are using. Fisher is probably the correct tool for what I need, but whatever. (<a href="https://github.com/oh-my-fish/oh-my-fish/blob/master/README.md">source</a>)</p><p></p><blockquote>curl -L https://get.oh-my.fish | fish</blockquote><p>Now install <b>bobthefish</b> because it is a good theme that supports stuff like git out of the box. (<a href="https://github.com/oh-my-fish/theme-bobthefish">source</a>)</p><p></p><p></p><blockquote><p></p><p>omf install bobthefish</p><p></p></blockquote><p>That theme might throw some odd characters at us because it looks cool, so you need a font that will keep up. The font called <b>Hack</b> looks he most like I expect a font to look, so I use the version supplied via Nerd Fonts. (<a href="https://github.com/ryanoasis/nerd-fonts">source</a>)</p><p></p><blockquote><p>brew tap homebrew/cask-fonts</p><p>brew cask install font-hack-nerd-font</p></blockquote><p><i>Now you have to go into your iTerm preferences and select the new font.</i></p><p><i>As long as you are in the preferences menu you should find a color scheme that you like. I really couldn't find something I liked a lot but <b>Smoooooth</b> was the one I disliked the least so I went with it.</i></p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p></p>Spoon (Jim Lind)http://www.blogger.com/profile/01802214706659967893noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1912157028983075300.post-18496083133625145492019-01-19T13:46:00.005-08:002019-01-19T13:46:51.707-08:00Automatically Mount USB Drive in RaspbianThis blog is mostly information for myself but maybe the powers of google will bless you with this search result. If you use Raspbian for only command line USB devices don't mount automatically.<br />
Luckily the process to get it to work is pretty easy.<br />
Unfortunately there are lots of documented processes that aren't very good. You should use a <b>udev</b> rule for this not any of the other funky junk.<br />
<br />
You should be able to do most of this by installing the usbmount package (https://github.com/rbrito/usbmount) but it doesn't always work perfectly out of the box so I've been sticking to this solution because it has always worked for me.<br />
<br />
The biggest piece is to use this automount rule from <a href="https://www.axllent.org/docs/view/auto-mounting-usb-storage/">Axllent.org</a><br />
<br />
Create a file <span style="background-color: #f9f9f9; color: #363636; font-family: monospace; font-size: 13px;">/etc/udev/rules.d/11-media-by-label-auto-mount.rules</span> that contains the following.<br />
<br />
<pre style="background: #f0f0f0; border: 1px dashed #cccccc; color: black; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 12px; height: auto; line-height: 20px; overflow: auto; padding: 0px; text-align: left; width: 99%;"><code style="color: black; word-wrap: normal;"> KERNEL!="sd[a-z][0-9]", GOTO="media_by_label_auto_mount_end"
# Import FS infos
IMPORT{program}="/sbin/blkid -o udev -p %N"
# Get a label if present, otherwise specify one
ENV{ID_FS_LABEL}!="", ENV{dir_name}="%E{ID_FS_LABEL}"
ENV{ID_FS_LABEL}=="", ENV{dir_name}="usbhd-%k"
# Global mount options
ACTION=="add", ENV{mount_options}="relatime"
# Filesystem-specific mount options
ACTION=="add", ENV{ID_FS_TYPE}=="vfat|ntfs", ENV{mount_options}="$env{mount_options},utf8,gid=100,umask=002"
# Mount the device
ACTION=="add", RUN+="/bin/mkdir -p /media/%E{dir_name}", RUN+="/bin/mount -o $env{mount_options} /dev/%k /media/%E{dir_name}"
# Clean up after removal
ACTION=="remove", ENV{dir_name}!="", RUN+="/bin/umount -l /media/%E{dir_name}", RUN+="/bin/rmdir /media/%E{dir_name}"
# Exit
LABEL="media_by_label_auto_mount_end" </code></pre>
<br />
Edit the udev config: <span style="background-color: #f9f9f9; color: #363636; font-family: monospace; font-size: 13px;">sudo nano /lib/systemd/system/systemd-udevd.service </span><br />
Comment out the last 7 lines and everything works normally. Comment below if you actually know what these do. Otherwise I'm not terribly worried.<br />
<br />
<pre style="background: #f0f0f0; border: 1px dashed #cccccc; color: black; font-family: "arial"; font-size: 12px; height: auto; line-height: 20px; overflow: auto; padding: 0px; text-align: left; width: 99%;"><code style="color: black; word-wrap: normal;"> #KillMode=mixed
#WatchdogSec=3min
#TasksMax=infinity
#MountFlags=slave
#MemoryDenyWriteExecute=yes
#RestrictRealtime=yes
#RestrictAddressFamilies=AF_UNIX AF_NETLINK AF_INET AF_INET6
</code></pre>
<br />
Restart udev with the command: <span style="background-color: #f9f9f9; color: #363636; font-family: monospace; font-size: 13px;">sudo udevadm control --reload-rules</span><br />
Restart the box with the command command: <span style="background-color: #f9f9f9; color: #363636; font-family: monospace; font-size: 13px;">sudo reboot</span>Spoon (Jim Lind)http://www.blogger.com/profile/01802214706659967893noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1912157028983075300.post-6752299000017875212018-11-10T16:47:00.005-08:002018-11-10T16:48:25.717-08:00iPhone XS and iPhone XR Black Friday Deals 2018<b>Sam's Club Member Event</b><br />
<i><span style="font-family: inherit;">Stores Open 7am on <span style="background-color: white; color: #111111;">S</span><span style="background-color: white; color: #111111;">aturd</span><span style="background-color: white; color: #111111;">ay, November 10, 2018</span></span></i><br />
<br />
$300 Gift Card with Activation & Payment Plan <span style="color: orange;">(AppleCare required for Payment Plan?)</span><br />
iPhone 8, 8+, X, XS, XS Max, XR<br />
<br />
<b>Target Black Friday Circular</b><br />
<i>Stores Open 5pm on Thanksgiving</i><br />
<i><br /></i>
$150 Gift Card with Activation <span style="color: orange;">(requiring Payment Plan?)</span><br />
iPhone 8, 8+, X<br />
<br />
$250 Gift Card with Activation<span style="color: orange;"> (requiring Payment Plan?)</span><br />
iPhone XS, XS Max<br />
<br />
<b>Best Buy Black Friday Ad</b><br />
<i>Stores Open 5pm on Thanksgiving</i><br />
<br />
"Up to" $150 Gift Card with Activation<span style="background-color: white;"><span style="color: orange;"> (requiring Payment Plan?)</span></span><br />
iPhone XR, XS XS Max<br />
<b><br /></b>
<b>Walmart Black Friday Ad</b><br />
<i>Stores Open 6pm on Thanksgiving</i><br />
<br />
$400 Gift Card with Activation & Payment Plan<br />
iPhone 8, 8+, X<br />
<br />
$300 Gift Card with Activation & Payment Plan<br />
iPhone XR, XS XS MaxSpoon (Jim Lind)http://www.blogger.com/profile/01802214706659967893noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1912157028983075300.post-74072996016174437232018-02-06T19:34:00.001-08:002018-02-06T19:39:27.076-08:00Docker for Script Kiddies<br />
<div>
Do you want to easily write some code and run it and not foul up your normal desktop with funky environment variables or versions of scripting languages that aren't officially supported? Yes.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
Do you want to use Docker because it is the cool thing that all the other kids are running now? Yes.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
Alpine Linux is built to be super super small so it is perfect for things like Docker where you might have a lot of your systems running in parallel. So I build my examples on top of Alpine Linux because why not. I picked the "most popular" programming languages that can be easily installed in vanilla Alpine Linux. This means that Go, Java, and C# are left out because Alpine Linux uses <b>musl </b>instead of <b>gnu libc</b> and that's not something easily supported out of the box (much respect for Rust for supporting this).</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
So here are all my GitHub repos with some basic shell scripts for you to run so you can see a HelloWorld run in the languages that are easily supported in vanilla Alpine Linux</div>
<h3>
GitHub Repos</h3>
<ul>
<li><a href="https://github.com/jimlind/simple-docker-c">simple-docker-c</a> (Example of compiling and running a C program in Docker)</li>
<li><a href="https://github.com/jimlind/simple-docker-cplusplus">simple-docker-c</a>++ (Example of compiling and running a C++ program in Docker)</li>
<li><a href="https://github.com/jimlind/simple-docker-nodejs">simple-docker-nodejs</a> (Example of running a Node.js program in Docker)</li>
<li><a href="https://github.com/jimlind/simple-docker-php">simple-docker-php</a> (Example of running a PHP program in Docker)</li>
<li><a href="https://github.com/jimlind/simple-docker-python">simple-docker-python</a> (Example of running a Python 2 program in Docker)</li>
<li><a href="https://github.com/jimlind/simple-docker-python3">simple-docker-python3</a> (Example of running a Python 3 program in Docker)</li>
<li><a href="https://github.com/jimlind/simple-docker-ruby">simple-docker-ruby</a> (Example of running a Ruby program in Docker)</li>
<li><a href="https://github.com/jimlind/simple-docker-rust">simple-docker-rust</a> (Example of compiling and running a Rust program in Docker)</li>
</ul>
<div>
<h3>
File Size Comparison</h3>
<div>
Of all the ways to measure a programming language probably the worst way is to compare the file size needed on disk to get a Hello World program running. But it was easy to do so I went ahead and did it. The base Alpine Linux weighs in at 4.15MB so everything else is on top of that.</div>
<ul>
<li>COMPILER: GCC 6.4.0</li>
<ul>
<li>SIZE: 100MB</li>
</ul>
<li>COMPILER: G++ 6.4.0</li>
<ul>
<li>SIZE: 152MB</li>
</ul>
<li>LANGUAGE: Node.js v8.9.3</li>
<ul>
<li>SIZE: 50.2MB</li>
</ul>
<li>LANGUAGE: PHP 7.1.12</li>
<ul>
<li>SIZE: 14.2MB</li>
</ul>
<li>LANGUAGE: Python 2.7.14</li>
<ul>
<li>SIZE: 44.3MB</li>
</ul>
<li>LANGUAGE: Python 3.6.3</li>
<ul>
<li>SIZE: 55.4MB</li>
</ul>
<li>LANGUAGE: Ruby 2.4.3</li>
<ul>
<li>SIZE: 20.4MB</li>
</ul>
<li>LANGUAGE: Rust 1.22.1</li>
<ul>
<li>SIZE: 267MB</li>
</ul>
</ul>
</div>
Spoon (Jim Lind)http://www.blogger.com/profile/01802214706659967893noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1912157028983075300.post-75567861088130944342017-09-20T19:24:00.002-07:002017-09-20T19:33:26.954-07:00Printrbot Auto-Leveling Probe FixHas your Printrbot gotten cranky or just given up the ghost when trying to probe your bed?<br />
Is the Printrbot forum not terribly helpful?<br />
<br />
My Printrbot would detect the bed in the first spot.<br />
Move to the second spot and go up, up.<br />
Move to the third spot and go up, up.<br />
<br />
If your bot acts kind of like this it means that something is wrong with your probe or your firmware or something. Use <b>M119</b> to see if you can get <b>z_min</b> to be triggered at different positions. In my case it was easy to see that it would trigger near home, but not away so I could tell the probe was broken. Because the only difference was how the wires were stretched I had a strong suspicion it was somewhere in the middle of that wire pull that was getting moved.<br />
<br />
None of the other wires in the bundle were having any problems so I don't know why the probe wires are so cheap. Anyway, I did it the proper DIY way chopped out the bulk of the wire and soldered in some heavier duty electrical wires I had laying around.<br />
<br />
<span id="goog_1801344467"></span><span id="goog_1801344468"></span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-H18jUZcX2xQ/WcMh5KL3C6I/AAAAAAAAETQ/jfgAxlXdXaYqRPJ9jUJEMzWSgIV70bcFwCLcBGAs/s1600/IMG_7696.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-H18jUZcX2xQ/WcMh5KL3C6I/AAAAAAAAETQ/jfgAxlXdXaYqRPJ9jUJEMzWSgIV70bcFwCLcBGAs/s400/IMG_7696.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
It looked like this.<br />
<br />
I keep the thinner wires on the probe and the connector and soldered there because it was easier that tearing those apart and reconnecting. I fished the probe back into place and it works flawlessly.<br />
<br />
I've had 2 different probes fail due to garbage thin wires, but never had a problem with the firmware as some people claim is part of the problem.<br />
<br />
So if your probe stopped detecting the your metal build surface you may as well try replacing the wires. It's the maker way after all.Spoon (Jim Lind)http://www.blogger.com/profile/01802214706659967893noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1912157028983075300.post-53427449608160901732017-04-26T17:21:00.000-07:002017-04-29T16:34:36.680-07:00Using a Raspberry Pi as an Airplay ServerThis is mostly for my own personal notes. Maybe you'll get something out of it.<br />
I've got an original Raspberry Pi B with a WiFi dongle that I have hooked directly to the USB input of my JVC Receiver.<br />
<br />
Grab the "Lite" version of Raspbian because you won't need any windows.<br />
At press time the most recent version is 2017-04-10-raspbian-jessie-lite.zip<br />
<br />
Setup your accounts/wifi/localization the way you like.<br />
Update and upgrade/dist-upgrade to get everything current. <br />
Reboot to make sure everything is on the level.<br />
<br />
Go to: https://github.com/mikebrady/shairport-sync and skim the instructions so you know what you are doing.<br />
<br />
Install All The Things!<br />
<blockquote class="tr_bq">
sudo apt-get install build-essential git xmltoman autoconf automake libtool libdaemon-dev libasound2-dev libpopt-dev libconfig-dev avahi-daemon libavahi-client-dev libsoxr-dev libssl-dev<code></code></blockquote>
Clone All The Things!<br />
<blockquote class="tr_bq">
git clone https://github.com/mikebrady/shairport-sync.git</blockquote>
Change Directory<br />
<blockquote class="tr_bq">
cd shairport-sync</blockquote>
Setup Configuration Script <br />
<blockquote class="tr_bq">
autoreconf -i -f</blockquote>
Configure All The Things!<br />
<blockquote class="tr_bq">
./configure --sysconfdir=/etc --with-alsa --with-avahi --with-ssl=openssl --with-soxr --with-systemd</blockquote>
Make All The Things!<br />
<blockquote class="tr_bq">
make</blockquote>
<br />
Create Shairport-Sync Group for Security<br />
<blockquote class="tr_bq">
getent group shairport-sync &>/dev/null || sudo groupadd -r shairport-sync >/dev/null</blockquote>
Create Shairport-Sync User for Security<br />
<blockquote class="tr_bq">
getent passwd shairport-sync &> /dev/null || sudo useradd -r -M -g shairport-sync -s /usr/bin/nologin -G audio shairport-sync >/dev/null</blockquote>
Install All The Things!<br />
<blockquote class="tr_bq">
sudo make install</blockquote>
Launch on System Boot <br />
<blockquote class="tr_bq">
sudo systemctl enable shairport-sync </blockquote>
Configure All The Things!<br />
<blockquote class="tr_bq">
sudo nano /etc/shairport-sync.conf </blockquote>
I added a name to the "general" section<br />
<blockquote class="tr_bq">
name = "MusicPi";<br />interpolation = "soxr";</blockquote>
I added some output info to the "alsa" section<br />
<blockquote class="tr_bq">
output_device = "hw:1";</blockquote>
Spoon (Jim Lind)http://www.blogger.com/profile/01802214706659967893noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1912157028983075300.post-8968785471253534072016-09-22T16:43:00.001-07:002016-09-22T16:43:29.617-07:00Vonets VOPWRT and How I Spent $8<br />
Forgive the brevity. I don't want to waste much more time on this subject<br />
<ul>
<li>I have WiFi.</li>
<li>I have a device that is old and doesn't support WiFi</li>
<li>I have experience mucking around in OpenWRT and have setup a few devices.</li>
</ul>
<br />
I figured I'd take this bullet list and put it to good use.<br />
I went on eBay and found an $8 piece of hardware that uses OpenWRT. The Vonets VOPWRT. You won't find much information on Google about it. That should have been a red flag.<br />
<br />
The first step of this project was to get this VOPWRT box on my WiFi. Start it up. Connect to the config as listed on the bottom of the box and try.<br />
<br />
Try it again. Reset the firmware to factory. Try again the next day. Try again a different way. Try again a third way. Try a couple more different ways and fail. Try via command line stuff. Try again. Give up.<br />
<br />
Decide to try upgrading the firmware. Checking the OpenWRT wiki where it lists the device. No supported version of it, but what ever. The version with <b>mt7620a_mt7530</b> in the name sounds promising as it aligns with the specs listed. Download that and attempt to upgrade.<br />
<br />
Flash the image to the device. Notice the upgrade seems to go fine. Watch as the device reboots and it is bricked. Open up the box. Notice no screws so you know it is a high quality product. Note the 3 empty antenna structures clearly designed to make you think it pumps out a great signal.<br />
<br />
Take out the 8GB MicroSD card.<br />
Throw everything else away.<br />
Vow to not waste your money on more piece of garbage electronicsSpoon (Jim Lind)http://www.blogger.com/profile/01802214706659967893noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1912157028983075300.post-88871925141151427892016-02-06T13:14:00.000-08:002016-02-06T13:14:04.448-08:00Lubuntu Rythmbox Fix for AutoAudioSink and GStreamer<span style="color: #4c1130;"><b>TLDR;<br />sudo apt-get install gstreamer1.0-alsa</b></span><br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-zPSTKZph_2U/VrZXdy-MiEI/AAAAAAAAEMQ/oqf4JSR3gKE/s1600/2016-02-06-152536_792x590_scrot.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="297" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-zPSTKZph_2U/VrZXdy-MiEI/AAAAAAAAEMQ/oqf4JSR3gKE/s400/2016-02-06-152536_792x590_scrot.png" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
FWIW, this is what happened to me installing Lubuntu 14.04 from a USB stick. <br />
<br />
Did you install Rythmbox in Lubuntu and find that you can't use it because you get an error that says "Couldn't start playback" - "Failed to create autoaudiosink element; check your GStreamer installation" instead?<br />
<br />
I did, and it was annoying. Couldn't find any real help anywhere no matter how much I searched. Eventually I stumbled across a <a href="https://bugs.launchpad.net/ubuntu/+source/lubuntu-meta/+bug/1178272">bug report</a> for it when I used the correct combination of magical keywords (not the autoaudiosink/gstreamer error). Hopefully you find this post faster now and it solves your problems.<br />
<br />
The short version of the bug report is that Rythmbox isn't installed by default so they shouldn't support it by default and it acts differently than the audio players they do support, so ¯\_(ツ)_/¯ for now.<br />
<br />
Rythmbox is trying to find an interface to output the audio. It knows that GStreamer has been installed and it tries to use it. Lubuntu's installation of GStreamer and fails trying to grab an autoaudiosink, whatever that is.<br />
<br />
So you just need to give GStreamer a little something else to play with. Install the ALSA driver (make sure you restart Rythmbox) and go about your buisness.<br />
<blockquote class="tr_bq">
<span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;">sudo apt-get install gstreamer1.0-alsa</span></blockquote>
Spoon (Jim Lind)http://www.blogger.com/profile/01802214706659967893noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1912157028983075300.post-91204845602974113172016-02-04T16:47:00.004-08:002016-02-04T16:47:48.030-08:00The Art of Getting a Deal on a Sleep Number BedI've been through the process of buying a Sleep Number bed and in hindsight, this is how you should do it. If I followed these instructions I'd have been better off.<br />
<br />
<i>I don't and haven't worked for Sleep Number but the business model is pretty transparent.</i><br />
<h3>
Give Yourself a 3-4 Month Window To Buy a Bed</h3>
The Sleep Number people want you to buy a bed now. They'll tell you the best sale is right now but the truth is that all their sales are pretty similar. It's your job to take a look at them from a wider view.<br />
<h3>
Visit a Store with a Reliable Alibi</h3>
Get into whatever mall has the Sleep Number store and let the sales person give you the whole 9-yards and let you lay in all the beds. Come into the store knowing you are NOT going to buy a bed. You'll get less of a hard sale from the store if you tell them why you can't buy a bed (you could be closing on a house or moving to a bigger apartment in 2 months and don't have room to store it). Figure out which range of mattresses you prefer. Thank the salesperson for their time as you leave empty handed.<br />
<h3>
Visit the Website</h3>
There is no good reason to buy your bed at the mall store. The prices and discounts are the same and you won't get the hard sell on a new pillow or accessory. Now that you know which mattresses you liked start looking at prices. Ignore the discounted price for now, and assume you'll buy it at full price (but you won't). Still feel good about your possible new bed? Excellent.<br />
<h3>
Get Historical Discount Data</h3>
Remember how I told you to ignore the discounts? That's because they are useless without historical perspective. Does Sleep Number want you to get their historical discount data? They want you to think there is no discount like the discount today. Fortunately, they have a <a href="https://twitter.com/sleepnumberdeal">Twitter account </a>dedicated to promoting current deals that you can use to harvest historical data. Did you notice that they tend to have a different mattress on sale each month? Add your favorite mattresses to the cart with and without bases to see how the current discounts size up. Odds are if there is no discount or a weak discount next Month will be better.<br />
<h3>
Realize the Base is a Scam</h3>
You may have noticed that there is some fluctuations in the the discounts, and that's to be expected in day-to-day marketing. But the bigger changes come because sometimes the discounts are on a "bed" and not a mattress. That means you might only get that $600 discount after you purchase the $300 base. Unfortunately, using only the Twitter data doesn't give you these numbers, but looking at larger trends you can make some estimated guesses.<br />
<br />
Did I mention the Base is a scam? for $300 you get a big hunk of plastic. For $150 more you can get some legs on it. For less than that $450 you can go to <a href="http://www.ikea.com/us/en/">Ikea</a> or <a href="http://www.wayfair.com/">Wayfair</a> and get a nice looking platform bed with a headboard and everything.<br />
<h3>
Check the Discounts Every Month</h3>
If you want to sign up for the mailing list or follow the specified Twitter account you can, but you may as well just check in on the website once a month. Every time they announce a new sale add it to your list of historical data. You'll get a good feel for when it's the right time to buy.Spoon (Jim Lind)http://www.blogger.com/profile/01802214706659967893noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1912157028983075300.post-4687833082006195822015-03-10T00:00:00.000-07:002015-03-15T14:59:22.615-07:00E3D v6 Hotend on a Printrbot Simple Metal (Introduction)<h3>
Welcome True Believers </h3>
Congratulations, you typed some worthwhile keywords into a search engine or had somebody recommend this great link. I'm going to assume you've got a working Printrbot Simple Metal and you are looking to upgrade your hotend and you smartly decided to pick the mostly highly regarded hotend on the market, the E3D v6.<br />
<h3>
Why? </h3>
I decided to start this journey because I noticed my thermistor seems to change it's mind over time (20 degree difference depending on the day). Did you know the standard Ubis hotend has the thermistor held in place with teflon tape? That's not even real tape, there's nothing to keep it from moving around.<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-hAVIzRTZ0YM/VPUHcRplLII/AAAAAAAAECo/4xMEuRKq2VQ/s1600/IMG_3390.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-hAVIzRTZ0YM/VPUHcRplLII/AAAAAAAAECo/4xMEuRKq2VQ/s1600/IMG_3390.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ubis Hotend Dismantled</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
You can see in the photo there is a little notch for the thermistor to sit in. It works well enough, but I want something more predicable with true user serviceable parts. I'm keeping my Ubis around because it still works, it's just not great.<br />
<h3>
Pain Points</h3>
The E3D v6 is a great replacement for the Ubis with 3 pain points.<br />
<ol>
<li> The hotend is too efficient. It's shorter than the Printrbot was designed for. You'll need an adapter.</li>
<li>The Ubis hotend has some Molex connectors that don't match the raw ends of the E3D v6. </li>
<li>The hotend, like all good modern hotends needs a fan to be running at all times.</li>
<li>The firmware on your board will need to be updated. </li>
</ol>
The adapter is easy enough to print out as long as you have a working printer. The hotend fan can be hardwired to the main power of your Printrbot and the firmware customization has been documented a thousand times. Don't be afraid. I'm here for you.<br />
<h3>
Ingredients</h3>
<ol>
<li>Printrbot Simple Metal (with USB cable)</li>
<li>E3D v6 1.75mm Universal (I bought mine from Filastruder.com)</li>
<li>A printed hotend adapter (see Step 1) </li>
<li>A bunch of little bits and bobs for a Molex connection</li>
<ul>
<li>1x Molex 0436450200 (<a href="http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/0436450200/WM1845-ND/268974">Available at Digikey</a>) </li>
</ul>
<ul>
<li>2x Molex 0430300003 (<a href="http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/0430300003/WM2776CT-ND/1132453">Available at Digikey</a>)</li>
<li>1x Molex 0436400201 (<a href="http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/0436400201/WM1855-ND/268984">Available at Digikey</a>)</li>
<ul>
<li>Substitute Molex 0436400200 if not available (<a href="http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/0436400200/WM1850-ND/268979">Available at Digikey</a>)</li>
</ul>
<li>2x Molex 0430310003 (<a href="http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/0430310003/WM2777CT-ND/1132454">Available at Digikey</a>)</li>
</ul>
<li>Needle-nose pliers.</li>
<li>Soldering iron and solder.</li>
<li>A computer (I used OS X, but you can work it out) </li>
<li>(Optional) Scrap of wire and bits of aluminum foil</li>
</ol>
<h3>
Steps</h3>
<ol>
<li><a href="http://thisoldspoon.blogspot.com/2015/03/printing-your-e3d-v6-adapter-for.html">Print your adapter</a></li>
<li><a href="http://thisoldspoon.blogspot.com/2015/03/assembling-your-e3d-v6-hotend.html">Assembling your hotend</a></li>
<li><a href="http://thisoldspoon.blogspot.com/2015/03/wiring-e3d-v6-hotend.html">Wire your hotend</a></li>
<li><a href="http://thisoldspoon.blogspot.com/2015/03/test-your-printrbots-new-hotend.html">Test your hotend</a></li>
<li><a href="http://thisoldspoon.blogspot.com/2015/03/wiring-your-e3d-v6-hotend-fan-to-your.html">Wire your fan</a></li>
<li><a href="http://thisoldspoon.blogspot.com/2015/03/replace-ubis-hotend-with-e3d.html">Replace original hotend</a></li>
<li><a href="http://thisoldspoon.blogspot.com/2015/03/updating-your-printrboard-firmware-os-x.html">Firmware</a></li>
<li><a href="http://thisoldspoon.blogspot.com/2015/03/e3d-v6-autotune.html">Autotune </a></li>
<li><a href="http://thisoldspoon.blogspot.com/2015/03/final-hotend-assembly.html">Final hotend assembly</a></li>
<li><a href="http://thisoldspoon.blogspot.com/2015/03/adjusting-your-auto-leveling-probe.html">Adjust your auto leveler</a></li>
<li><a href="http://thisoldspoon.blogspot.com/2015/03/adjusting-your-slicer.html">Tweak your slicer</a></li>
<li><a href="http://thisoldspoon.blogspot.com/2015/03/apply-your-e3d-sticker.html">Apply the sticker </a></li>
</ol>
Spoon (Jim Lind)http://www.blogger.com/profile/01802214706659967893noreply@blogger.com8tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1912157028983075300.post-81897384186998448232015-03-08T12:00:00.000-07:002015-03-15T14:37:54.154-07:00Apply Your E3D Sticker<i>Part of a series on <a href="http://thisoldspoon.blogspot.com/2015/03/e3d-v6-hotend-on-printrbot-simple-metal.html">installing the hotend</a>.</i> <br />
<br />
<h3>
Display Your Pride</h3>
Remember when you were so proud to put that AMD sticker on your PC case? This is the modern equivalent. People who care about such things will want to know more about your hotend. Anybody else won't care and won't notice. There is lots of good real estate on your Printrbot so find a place for your sticker to live.<br />
<br />
[placeholder for a photo]<br />
<h3>
Live Long and Print Often</h3>
You are done. Print all the things.Spoon (Jim Lind)http://www.blogger.com/profile/01802214706659967893noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1912157028983075300.post-55774823463466949442015-03-08T00:00:00.000-08:002015-03-15T14:37:39.099-07:00Adjusting Your Slicer<i>Part of a series on <a href="http://thisoldspoon.blogspot.com/2015/03/e3d-v6-hotend-on-printrbot-simple-metal.html">installing the hotend</a>.</i> <br />
<br />
<h3>
Compensate for Improvements</h3>
I don't want to say my Ubis hotend was bad but I usually had to have the hotend set at 200˚ or I would get pretty consistent clogs and failures. When I first got the Printrbot I was able to print around 190˚ and when it got cranky I'd had to print at 220˚. I usually had to set my flow to around 85% on the Ubis to get good measurements at 200˚ but that needs adjustment as well. With your new hotend you'll want to dial in your settings again. Find the perfect settings.<br />
<br />
For me I was able to transition down to 185˚ for most prints with a little tweaking for the first layer to get optimal bed adhesion. I'm still working things out, but the temperatures I want for optimal printing will be a little easier to hone in on.<br />
<br />
You can also speed up your print quite a bit. Of course the final speed you'll want to use will depend on how complicated your print is and how your filament reacts at certain temperatures, but I moved my minimum print speed to 60mm/s without issue.<br />
<h3>
Compensate for Cool Zone</h3>
You need to make sure that the hot filament doesn't retract into the cool zone on the new hotend. It'll lead to clogging and general bad feelings. The official documentation said that the furthest you'd could use 0.5mm-1.0mm for retraction, but I found occasional failures using 1mm. I'm sticking with 0.5mm for now.<br />
<h3>
Test, Test, Test</h3>
As with everything you've encountered on your 3D printer you'll want to experiment for a while to find the prefect settings for your filament, weather, altitude, etc.<br />
<h3>
Your Printer is Almost Perfect</h3>
<a href="http://thisoldspoon.blogspot.com/2015/03/apply-your-e3d-sticker.html"> Just one last thing before you are done.</a><br />
<h3>
</h3>
Spoon (Jim Lind)http://www.blogger.com/profile/01802214706659967893noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1912157028983075300.post-58097603725436415662015-03-07T12:00:00.000-08:002015-03-15T14:59:35.289-07:00Adjusting Your Auto-Leveling Probe<div id="guideIntroTitle">
<i>Part of a series on <a href="http://thisoldspoon.blogspot.com/2015/03/e3d-v6-hotend-on-printrbot-simple-metal.html">installing the hotend</a>.</i><br />
<i> </i> <br />
<h3>
Introduction to Auto-Leveling</h3>
If you haven't watched <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lgVmNuwMH68">Brook's video on setting up your Auto-lever</a>, you should got and do that now.<br />
<br />
Like the original setup you want your sensor about 3mm off your print bed when your hotend tip is touching the bed. You should go head and find something about 3mm tall, and remount your sensor then follow the video and get things setup properly.<br />
<ul>
<li>M212 for writing a setting</li>
<li>M500 for saving your settings</li>
<li>M501 for viewing your settings </li>
</ul>
<h3>
Don't Make My Mistakes </h3>
I thought I didn't need to readjust my sensor. It wasn't hitting the bed. It ended up that my sensor was only about 1mm off the bed and that wasn't good. Occasionally we all get threads and blobs from our prints that are too tall and a too low sensor will hit it and cause problems.<br />
<br />
Always double check your Z index before attempting to print. M501 will display the current settings. Make sure you are awake, alert, and aware or you'll mistake Z -0.30 as Z -3.00 and you'll get a couple nice scars in your print bed. I'd include a photo of my print bed here, but it is too embarrassing.<br />
<h3>
Test, Test, Test</h3>
While you are printing your test cube don't be afraid to keep trying. Once you think you've got the settings perfect print 2 more times at the same setting to make sure it wasn't just luck.</div>
<div id="guideIntroTitle">
<h3>
Auto Leveled-Up</h3>
</div>
<div id="guideIntroTitle">
You should be an expert at setting that Z index. Now <a href="http://thisoldspoon.blogspot.com/2015/03/adjusting-your-slicer.html">move on to adjusting your slicer.</a></div>
Spoon (Jim Lind)http://www.blogger.com/profile/01802214706659967893noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1912157028983075300.post-36655542342534452262015-03-07T00:00:00.000-08:002015-04-23T08:57:04.369-07:00Final E3D Hotend Assembly<i>Part of a series on <a href="http://thisoldspoon.blogspot.com/2015/03/e3d-v6-hotend-on-printrbot-simple-metal.html">installing the hotend</a>.</i> <br />
<h3>
Last Step from E3D</h3>
<blockquote class="tr_bq">
<b>Note: </b><br />
These instructions are for the E3D V6. The wildly popular E3D Lite6 should never go above 245˚C so I'd recommending stopping at 240˚ here instead of 270˚ if you have a E3D Lite6.</blockquote>
<br />
In the official instructions this is the last step assembly instruction before some guidelines usage. We are getting closer to done. Hang in there. They suggest you do the final fitting when the hotend is fully detached, but that means I'd have to undo all the things I previously did. So I gathered up my 7mm socket and adjustable wrench and went to town.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-sCnxcMPic1U/VPtzb3xlbJI/AAAAAAAAEJA/zhNC6pJcL68/s1600/IMG_3470.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-sCnxcMPic1U/VPtzb3xlbJI/AAAAAAAAEJA/zhNC6pJcL68/s1600/IMG_3470.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ready for action</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
A direct copy/paste from the instructions because they explain it perfectly. The default Printrboard firmware I uploaded had a max temperature of 275˚ so if you tried to get the hotend up to 285˚ it'd just shutdown and disconnect. I went for 270˚ and it did a good job of keeping things tight.<br />
<br />
Do be careful. You're metal tools on the metal hotend will conduct heat. If things start to get hot at all just put your tools down. Don't risk burning yourself.<br />
<blockquote class="tr_bq">
<ul>
<li>Set the HotEnd temperature to 285ºC. If you did not do a PID tune, then
approach this temperature slowly, exceeding 295ºC will permanently
damage the thermistor.</li>
<li>When the HotEnd is at tempereature, tighten the nozzle whilst holding
the heater block with a spanner. This will tighten the nozzle against
the HeatBreak and ensure that your HotEnd does not leak. You want to aim
for 3Nm of torque on the hot nozzle - this is about as much pressure as
you can apply with one finger on a small spanner. The nozzle does not
need to be torqued down incredibly tightly to form a good seal, when at
lower tempreatures the aluminium will contract and hold the Nozzle and
HeatBreak together. </li>
</ul>
</blockquote>
It wasn't too difficult to get the tools in place with the hotend already attached.<br />
<h3>
Hotend Construction Complete</h3>
Now you are done hacking on hardware. Time to <a href="http://thisoldspoon.blogspot.com/2015/03/adjusting-your-auto-leveling-probe.html">prep your Printrbot bed detection</a>.Spoon (Jim Lind)http://www.blogger.com/profile/01802214706659967893noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1912157028983075300.post-45595655585393211512015-03-06T01:00:00.000-08:002015-03-07T14:23:21.699-08:00E3D v6 Autotune<i>Part of a series on <a href="http://thisoldspoon.blogspot.com/2015/03/e3d-v6-hotend-on-printrbot-simple-metal.html">installing the hotend</a>.</i><br />
<br />
<br />
<h3>
Simple Autotuning</h3>
You need to Autotune your hotend. Basically that means you need to find settings that will allow a consistent heat. I have no clue if this is optimal but it seems to work well enough for me.<br />
<br />
However you access the terminal of your Printrboard enter 'M303 S200' and press enter. That'll run Autotune at 200˚ because you Printrboard supports that. You'll get output like this:<br />
<blockquote class="tr_bq">
Send: M303 S200<br />
Recv: PID Autotune start<br />
Recv: bias: 173 d: 81 min: 196.41 max: 202.14<br />
Recv: bias: 183 d: 71 min: 196.84 max: 202.19<br />
Recv: bias: 177 d: 77 min: 198.42 max: 202.14<br />
Recv: Ku: 52.68 Tu: 21.76<br />
Recv: Clasic PID<br />
Recv: Kp: 31.61<br />
Recv: Ki: 2.91<br />
Recv: Kd: 85.97<br />
Recv: bias: 170 d: 84 min: 198.88 max: 202.14<br />
Recv: Ku: 65.59 Tu: 18.87<br />
Recv: Clasic PID<br />
Recv: Kp: 39.35<br />
Recv: Ki: 4.17<br />
Recv: Kd: 92.84<br />
Recv: bias: 170 d: 84 min: 198.45 max: 202.14<br />
Recv: Ku: 57.99 Tu: 18.35<br />
Recv: Clasic PID<br />
Recv: Kp: <b>34.79</b><br />
Recv: Ki: <b>3.79</b><br />
Recv: Kd: <b>79.80</b><br />
Recv: PID Autotune finished! Put the Kp, Ki and Kd constants into Configuration.</blockquote>
Those last 3 values for Kp Ki and Kd are the ones you want to write down or copy in to a text document or something. I added emphasis.<br />
<h3>
Saving New Values</h3>
The output of M303 suggests you put the new constants into your Configuration.h file and recompile your firmware and flash the Printrboard again. I wasn't 100% confident with the compile and flash process the first time so I prefer to not do that again. I might do it later if I feel better about the compilation process. You can write the PID values to you board much less intrusively by just using:<br />
<blockquote class="tr_bq">
M301 P34.79 I3.79 D79.80</blockquote>
Granted, if your board freaks out and you need to reset things you'll probably need to Autotune again, but that doesn't bother me. It was easy.<br />
<h3>
Moving On</h3>
Your Printrboard is autotuned. Time to move on to the final steps of hotend assembly.Spoon (Jim Lind)http://www.blogger.com/profile/01802214706659967893noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1912157028983075300.post-19410677086480922952015-03-06T00:00:00.000-08:002015-03-16T19:25:37.746-07:00Updating Your Printrboard Firmware (OS X)<i>Part of a series on <a href="http://thisoldspoon.blogspot.com/2015/03/e3d-v6-hotend-on-printrbot-simple-metal.html">installing the hotend</a>.</i><br />
<br />
<h3>
Thank the Community</h3>
The people at Printrbot Talk have done a good job of documenting everything over the years. I could almost just write "go read everything there" but some of it has aged out. The <a href="http://www.printrbottalk.com/wiki/index.php?title=Firmware_Update">main page on Firmware </a>is chock full of details so you should become antiquated with it.<br />
<h3>
Downloads</h3>
I'm on a Mac (currently Yosemite) and there are a lot of Mac specific downloads thanks to user PxT. I started a fresh folder for all the downloads so they wouldn't get mixed in with other stuff. Nothing should need to be installed so you can easily delete and/or archive the folder when you are done.<br />
<br />
First you need to download the firmware. Printrbot keeps their branch of the Marlin firmware on github so you can go ahead and grab it from their <a href="https://github.com/Printrbot/Marlin/releases">releases page on GitHub</a>. I don't know exactly what Printrbot you have so I can't tell you what you need but I have a Simple Metal with a Rev D board so I needed the standard issue <a href="https://github.com/Printrbot/Marlin/archive/metal-simple-1403.tar.gz">Simple-Metal-1403-Firmware</a>. Check your Printrboard to see what revision you have before you get too far.<br />
<br />
Assuming you have a Mac, next you'll need to download an Arduino Build Environment and the Firmware Update App. You could roll your own Arduio Build Environment and find other tools to flash a new firmware on your board but Printrbot's tool leads you through the steps. Find both of these tools on the <a href="http://www.printrbottalk.com/wiki/index.php?title=User:PxT">PxT user page on Printrbot Talks</a>. To get the Arduino Build Environment to work you may have to install Java. That's outside the topic of conversation here but <a href="https://support.apple.com/kb/DL1572?locale=en_US">this install</a> solved my problems for now.<br />
<br />
Unzip anything that looks unzippable and make sure the apps will open. Feeling overwhelmed yet? We haven't even gotten our hands dirty.<br />
<h3>
Arduino Setup</h3>
The Arduino download saves you a lot of work hunting around for installs and putting files in odd places, but there are still 2 more things you need to do before you can get to work. You are going to compile your firmware by running verify on a specified board.<br />
<br />
Your firmware will be compiled in a silly location so check the 'compilation' box to show verbose output during compilation. Everything else on this window can stay the same. If you are planning on compiling more than once you'll want to uncheck the 'Update sketch files to new extension on save' box, but you shouldn't have to.<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-62d9T0gKEL8/VPqJx0_UQiI/AAAAAAAAEHg/PG_SapTyAsg/s1600/Screen%2BShot%2B2015-03-05%2Bat%2B7.37.24%2BPM.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-62d9T0gKEL8/VPqJx0_UQiI/AAAAAAAAEHg/PG_SapTyAsg/s1600/Screen%2BShot%2B2015-03-05%2Bat%2B7.37.24%2BPM.png" height="224" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">See the compilation button I checked?</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Now you'll need to tell the Arduino app to write data for Printrboard. You can compile for the <b>usbtinyisp</b> or the <b>BootloaderCDC</b> boot loader. Older documentation suggests the BootloaderCDC variant. Newer documentation suggests the usbtinyisp variant. I found the older documentation first and compiled with BootloaderCDC (It worked for me). You should probably compile for usbtinyisp because it is the more current suggestion.<br />
<br />
<b>[Wild Speculation]</b> The Mac OS X Firmware Update App comes bundled with the DFU bootloader so I'm guessing it bolts that on as the actual boot loader it uses. This would make sense that I built with BootloaderCDC (the bad one) with no problems. The firmware I was uploading was just a hair too big for the memory (addressed later) and two firmwares would do that.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-cd6M7VuVNNg/VPqKy__DzFI/AAAAAAAAEHo/uZX9W9NRmRM/s1600/Screen%2BShot%2B2015-03-05%2Bat%2B8.22.56%2BPM.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-cd6M7VuVNNg/VPqKy__DzFI/AAAAAAAAEHo/uZX9W9NRmRM/s1600/Screen%2BShot%2B2015-03-05%2Bat%2B8.22.56%2BPM.png" height="120" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">[usbtinyisp]Teensylu/Printrboard</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ZOpxunmyQdA/VPqLE_5nIBI/AAAAAAAAEHw/kJjd19YHS14/s1600/Screen%2BShot%2B2015-03-05%2Bat%2B7.37.55%2BPM.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ZOpxunmyQdA/VPqLE_5nIBI/AAAAAAAAEHw/kJjd19YHS14/s1600/Screen%2BShot%2B2015-03-05%2Bat%2B7.37.55%2BPM.png" height="118" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">[BootloaderCDC]Teensylu/Printrboard</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<h3>
Edit the Source</h3>
Have you ever done any programming in C++ before? Now is the time to beef up your resume. In the Arduino app open up the 'Marlin.pde' file in the Marlin subdirectory. It is linked to all the other files so you'll see a bunch of tabs open up.<br />
<br />
Open up the Configuration.h tab, it is the only one you'll need, and find the TEMP_SENSOR definitions. You only have one temperature sensor and it needs to be updated from '0' to '5' so edit the line '#define TEMP_SENSOR_0 0' to '#define TEMP_SENSOR_0 5' and save the file. The 5 here refers to the thermistor that shipped with your E3D v6 hotend and the 0 was the thermistor that was on your Ubis.<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-RoxM1FHOJjg/VPqNZANGEdI/AAAAAAAAEH8/DVslkNR-sjQ/s1600/Screen%2BShot%2B2015-03-05%2Bat%2B8.20.29%2BPM.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-RoxM1FHOJjg/VPqNZANGEdI/AAAAAAAAEH8/DVslkNR-sjQ/s1600/Screen%2BShot%2B2015-03-05%2Bat%2B8.20.29%2BPM.png" height="250" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">#define TEMP_SENSOR_0 5</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Oddly, the binary of the firmware you compile this way is just a hair too large to fit on the memory of your Printrboard. Luckily there are pieces you probably don't need. Lower in the Configuration.h file you'll find a collection of definitions that enable cool new pieces of hardware that work for Marlin boards. If you are like me you don't have any of them and you probably never will. I chose to disable support for the Ultipanel, so I recommend you do that as well. Add '//' to the front of the Ultipanel definition line so edit the line '#define ULTIPANEL //the ultipanel as on thingiverse' to '//#define ULTIPANEL //the ultipanel as on thingiverse' and save the file.<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-5IPtgiVKSqk/VPqO1EqiVMI/AAAAAAAAEIE/iiHKgg11gJc/s1600/Screen%2BShot%2B2015-03-05%2Bat%2B9.09.19%2BPM.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-5IPtgiVKSqk/VPqO1EqiVMI/AAAAAAAAEIE/iiHKgg11gJc/s1600/Screen%2BShot%2B2015-03-05%2Bat%2B9.09.19%2BPM.png" height="229" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">//#define ULTIPANEL //the ultipanel as on thingiverse</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<h3>
Compile and Copy</h3>
Now hit that green checkmark in the upper left hand corner to verify your code. This will actually compile it. You'll see a bunch of warning fly by but everybody else says that's fine, so just ignore those messages. Watch the console at the bottom of your Arduino app to finish and take note that it lists a long ugly directory that contains your Marlin.cpp.hex file. <br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-vUoo9rsIo0A/VPqP_3r82uI/AAAAAAAAEIM/fdOFwo-w5hc/s1600/Screen%2BShot%2B2015-03-05%2Bat%2B9.19.16%2BPM.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-vUoo9rsIo0A/VPqP_3r82uI/AAAAAAAAEIM/fdOFwo-w5hc/s1600/Screen%2BShot%2B2015-03-05%2Bat%2B9.19.16%2BPM.png" height="229" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">blah/blah/blahMarlin.cpp.hex</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
You'll want to put that hex file someplace that's worthwhile because you'll need it. I just opened a terminal and copied the file to my desktop with a proper name using the cp command.<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-udeFxgv0ZeA/VPqRldwLsaI/AAAAAAAAEIY/Kp35z0zRPWY/s1600/Screen%2BShot%2B2015-03-05%2Bat%2B9.20.13%2BPM.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-udeFxgv0ZeA/VPqRldwLsaI/AAAAAAAAEIY/Kp35z0zRPWY/s1600/Screen%2BShot%2B2015-03-05%2Bat%2B9.20.13%2BPM.png" height="224" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">cp blah/blah/blah/Marlin.cpp.hex ~/Desktop/Printrbot.hex</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<h3>
Flash the Firmware</h3>
Depending on the version of your board you'll need to add or remove a BOOT jumper. If you need to add it (like me) a piece of folded aluminum foil is good enough to get the job done. All you need is to make sure the pins are shorted for a few minutes.<br />
<br />
Using the provided Firmware Update App is pretty easy. You just drag and drop your hex file onto the app and it leads you step by step the things you need to do. If you don't drag and drop it'll ask you some information about your printer. Follow the directions as it asks you about your USB cable and your jumper. Press the reset button and carry on.<br />
<br />
If you try to write a flash a firmware file that is too large the App will throw an error that doesn't say anything about file size. Basically the code you uploaded is large enough that it tries to put too much information in the Bootloader. You can solve this by removing more features from the Configuration.h file.<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Jtrt2jwd8RA/VPsV4TXfvyI/AAAAAAAAEIw/452B8VtMxUw/s1600/Screen%2BShot%2B2015-03-05%2Bat%2B8.35.08%2BPM.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Jtrt2jwd8RA/VPsV4TXfvyI/AAAAAAAAEIw/452B8VtMxUw/s1600/Screen%2BShot%2B2015-03-05%2Bat%2B8.35.08%2BPM.png" height="159" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bootloader and code overlap.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<h3>
Success </h3>
If you get a success message then you have successfully flashed your Printrboard. Time to continue on and <a href="http://thisoldspoon.blogspot.com/2015/03/e3d-v6-autotune.html">autotune your hotend</a>.Spoon (Jim Lind)http://www.blogger.com/profile/01802214706659967893noreply@blogger.com9tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1912157028983075300.post-8590455495666971832015-03-05T12:00:00.000-08:002015-03-15T13:01:10.409-07:00Replace Ubis Hotend with E3D<i>Part of a series on <a href="http://thisoldspoon.blogspot.com/2015/03/e3d-v6-hotend-on-printrbot-simple-metal.html">installing the hotend</a>.</i><br />
<i> </i> <br />
<h3>
Just Do It</h3>
Not much to say here about this step. It's really up to you to fit everything into place. Somethings might be tight, so disassemble as much as you need. Reassemble. Push things around. Everything will fit just fine.<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-UGgd38zys-U/VQXbqZsCIrI/AAAAAAAAEJU/EojezuDVa8k/s1600/IMG_3472.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-UGgd38zys-U/VQXbqZsCIrI/AAAAAAAAEJU/EojezuDVa8k/s1600/IMG_3472.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Fits like a glove.</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
If things aren't fitting correctly go back to the drawing board. Work with what you have. Everything worked fine for me but your mileage may vary. <br />
<h3>
Just Done It</h3>
Now that your hotend is in place, and looking mighty fine I might add, time to get down and dirty with <a href="http://thisoldspoon.blogspot.com/2015/03/updating-your-printrboard-firmware-os-x.html">flashing the firmware on your Printrboard</a>.<br />
<h3>
</h3>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
Spoon (Jim Lind)http://www.blogger.com/profile/01802214706659967893noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1912157028983075300.post-12505090060100126302015-03-05T00:00:00.000-08:002015-03-15T12:42:38.702-07:00Wiring your E3D v6 Hotend Fan to your Printrboard<i>Part of a series on <a href="http://thisoldspoon.blogspot.com/2015/03/e3d-v6-hotend-on-printrbot-simple-metal.html">installing the hotend</a>.</i><br />
<br />
<h3>
Optional Directions</h3>
Remember the optional bit of wire and aluminum foil noted in the first page? This is where you will, or won't need them.
You'll have really long pieces of red and black wire from your
thermistor. Cut off about 4cm of that for use later on if you don't have
other bits of wire already around.<br />
<h3>
Fan Wire</h3>
<div class="seohtag" itemprop="model">
You'll need to
strip the fan wires a little bit. They are fragile so be careful. Now
take that extra long length of cable you have left over from the
thermistor and the extra piece of heatshrink tubing (cut it in half)
from the thermistor. Strip the ends of the long wires and solder the red
to red and black to black. You've now got a really really long wire
connecting to your fan. Leave the connection on the end.<br />
<br />
I managed to not get any good photos of this, but I think you've got it down now.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><br />
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/--pjycPdpVUI/VPk2uKK9SpI/AAAAAAAAEGU/Nq93j1niJtw/s1600/IMG_3455.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/--pjycPdpVUI/VPk2uKK9SpI/AAAAAAAAEGU/Nq93j1niJtw/s1600/IMG_3455.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr align="center"><td class="tr-caption">This is a terrible photo </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<h3>
Done Soldering</h3>
Now you should have a great looking electrically compatible Ubis drop in replacement. Are you starting to feel proud of yourself? You should be.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-LZb7dfsbe2M/VPpHLROEksI/AAAAAAAAEGo/0nkZjspMunA/s1600/IMG_3456.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-LZb7dfsbe2M/VPpHLROEksI/AAAAAAAAEGo/0nkZjspMunA/s1600/IMG_3456.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Looking sharp</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Put your hotend in place about where you want it to go and tighten the extruder down enough so that it isn't going anywhere. Remove the coil from your wire collection and fish your new fan wire along the your previous collection of wires. I used some sandwich bag twist ties to keep the cables neatish at this point.<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-YdkQ4Llhf_E/VPpIYiB862I/AAAAAAAAEG4/kMald5MzGQw/s1600/IMG_3466.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-YdkQ4Llhf_E/VPpIYiB862I/AAAAAAAAEG4/kMald5MzGQw/s1600/IMG_3466.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Keep it together</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<h3>
Always On Fan</h3>
If you are going to complain about any of the quality of this build, here is your time to complain. It is really hacky for the importance of the piece, but I haven't had any problems with it. The new hotend fan should be running at all times. That means it should have a solid 12V every time anywhere and it is vitally important that it does stay running or things will overheat and your hotend will clog and/or burn out. If you were in the habit to leaving your Printrbot powered on that means you'll have to change that habit.<br />
<br />
I just patched into the source 12V power for my fan. Shove some wires with a little bit of aluminum foil into the back end of the main power connector and you have got a good power source. I did add a zip-tie to further attempt to keep things properly connected.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-oW23sVtjBps/VPpIN1gHgzI/AAAAAAAAEGw/3NxeD5lBg1w/s1600/IMG_3459.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-oW23sVtjBps/VPpIN1gHgzI/AAAAAAAAEGw/3NxeD5lBg1w/s1600/IMG_3459.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
</div>
<div class="seohtag" itemprop="model">
Just connect your fan wire to those two new live wires, wrap a little electrical tape around it to keep things fit and finished and move on with your life.<br />
<h3>
Alternate Always On Fan Plans</h3>
I think the official Printrbot solution is currently an additional circuit on the z-index detector that boosts that voltage to 12V. I've also heard some people wiring against the heater core power and a normal ground and getting a good 12V. I didn't experiment with anything like that. I went straight for the source.</div>
<div class="seohtag" itemprop="model">
<h3>
All Fans Are Go</h3>
</div>
<div class="seohtag" itemprop="model">
Plug in your Printrbot to the power supply and your fan should be on. Now you can start <a href="http://thisoldspoon.blogspot.com/2015/03/replace-ubis-hotend-with-e3d.html">fitting the new hotend in place</a>.</div>
<div class="seohtag" itemprop="model">
</div>
<div class="seohtag" itemprop="model">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
Spoon (Jim Lind)http://www.blogger.com/profile/01802214706659967893noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1912157028983075300.post-69147680252054092352015-03-04T00:00:00.000-08:002015-03-07T14:24:33.847-08:00Test your Printrbot's New Hotend<i>Part of a series on <a href="http://thisoldspoon.blogspot.com/2015/03/e3d-v6-hotend-on-printrbot-simple-metal.html">installing the hotend</a>.</i><br />
<i> </i> <br />
<h3>
Plug It In</h3>
Plug your new thermistor and heater core connectors into the Printrbot. They should fit perfectly. You can just set the hot end assembly on the print bed for now. We aren't going to do anything too taxing. If the wires are too short for that you probably did something wrong.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-teSFx1olNm4/VPpSEMj9FVI/AAAAAAAAEHQ/S61ke5OfdtM/s1600/IMG_3452.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-teSFx1olNm4/VPpSEMj9FVI/AAAAAAAAEHQ/S61ke5OfdtM/s1600/IMG_3452.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
<h3>
Turn It On</h3>
Cross your fingers, here is the moment of truth. Power up the printer and connect to it with your printer software of choice. I use OctoPrint but you can use whatever you like. First look to see that you can connect to your printer. Some software packages will complain if they don't detect your hotend or thermistor correctly. It should read about 20˚ because that's normal. If you don't see that you'll need to try and trouble shoot things. You are on your own.<br />
<h3>
Heat Things Up</h3>
Cross your fingers again and hold your breath. Things are getting serious. Tell your hotend to heat up to 50˚ and keep one finger on your hotend and one hand on the power plug and both eyes on your temperature reading. You should feel the hotend start to heat up as the temperature rises on your screen. You've passed the first test. Watch your screen and notice that it'll heat up to around 60˚ before it starts to taper off. You can now use the same software to tell your hotend to stop heating and if you have these kind of things graphed you'll notice something like this graph.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-wr7krkGdidg/VPpR5pI99rI/AAAAAAAAEHI/XFVi6t0mN7g/s1600/Screen%2BShot%2B2015-03-04%2Bat%2B7.38.28%2BPM.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-wr7krkGdidg/VPpR5pI99rI/AAAAAAAAEHI/XFVi6t0mN7g/s1600/Screen%2BShot%2B2015-03-04%2Bat%2B7.38.28%2BPM.png" height="195" width="320" /></a></div>
<h3>
Tests Complete</h3>
You can breath again. Everything worked perfectly the first time (if it didn't keep trying). Your hotend should heat up on request and your thermistor should recognize a change in temperature. Nothing will be perfect at this point, but you are making progress. Now it's time to <a href="http://thisoldspoon.blogspot.com/2015/03/wiring-your-e3d-v6-hotend-fan-to-your.html">rig up your extra fan</a>.Spoon (Jim Lind)http://www.blogger.com/profile/01802214706659967893noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1912157028983075300.post-44694760668044621792015-03-03T00:00:00.000-08:002015-03-15T13:01:17.854-07:00Wiring the E3D v6 Hotend to Replace Ubis<i>Part of a series on <a href="http://thisoldspoon.blogspot.com/2015/03/e3d-v6-hotend-on-printrbot-simple-metal.html">installing the hotend</a>.</i><br />
<br />
<h3>
Thermistor Wires </h3>
They give you directions to use some ferrules, but you should solder
those points instead. You've got a soldering iron so fix those
conductive points like an adult. Remember to put heatshrink tubing (I used 1/4 of the provided tube on each point) on
the wires before soldering. After you are done you'll have a crazy long
cable for your thermistor<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-VrVKH1y7rRQ/VPkk9--BnaI/AAAAAAAAEEg/FoaWyZfFHSQ/s1600/IMG_3444.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-VrVKH1y7rRQ/VPkk9--BnaI/AAAAAAAAEEg/FoaWyZfFHSQ/s1600/IMG_3444.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Solder the wires. Red and black don't matter here.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-IRSOByLcSbE/VPkk-W39zZI/AAAAAAAAEEk/heTL5a64cHQ/s1600/IMG_3445.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-IRSOByLcSbE/VPkk-W39zZI/AAAAAAAAEEk/heTL5a64cHQ/s1600/IMG_3445.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cover the soldering with heatshrink tubing</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Now trim each of those thermistor wires down to about 10cm. Keep the extra black and red wire around because you'll need it later. Strip your new wire ends a bit.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-GxDisQ4KIfU/VPk0DYOIqVI/AAAAAAAAEGE/o46DyEFC2Mg/s1600/IMG_3447.jpg" height="240" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" width="320" /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A lot of wire removed</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<h3>
Thermistor Molex</h3>
We want our new thermistor wired exactly the same as our Ubis so we can easily swap it out.<br />
<br />
<span class="seohtagbold" itemprop="breadcrumb">Grab your Molex receptical (</span>0436450200) and two female sockets (<span itemprop="name">0430300003</span>). Crimp your sockets onto the wires as tightly as possible and push the sockets
into the receptacle. I used a needle nose pliers for the crimping but if you
have a special tool or want to solder a little bit just to keep a solid
connection that's fine.<br />
<br />
The sockets that go into the receptacle do have a top and bottom so get to know your Molex.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-BB5As9qxEdo/VPk0Cht-TqI/AAAAAAAAEF4/_3jNae9-8fg/s1600/IMG_3449.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-BB5As9qxEdo/VPk0Cht-TqI/AAAAAAAAEF4/_3jNae9-8fg/s1600/IMG_3449.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Red wire connected.</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-mq1Z4YLWOT4/VPk0DfYOn3I/AAAAAAAAEGA/ZBWfQV1vaxc/s1600/IMG_3450.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-mq1Z4YLWOT4/VPk0DfYOn3I/AAAAAAAAEGA/ZBWfQV1vaxc/s1600/IMG_3450.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Thermistor molex attached.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<h3>
</h3>
<h3>
Heater Cartridge Wire</h3>
You've got a really really long set of blue wires connected to your heater cartridge. You'll want to chop them short. I left mine a little longer than necessary just in case. My shortened wires were just about 10cm, but I probably could have gone 8cm.<br />
<br />
We don't need the protective red sleeve to be as long as it ships. It
mostly just needs to cover the crimped wire underneath it, and it
removes some of the flexibility. I slipped off the sleeve and made a cut at about 1cm then slipped both pieces back on.<br />
<br />
And of course strip some of the wire. If you are sloppy like me you'll fray the blue covering a lot, but it doesn't matter because there is a more solid covering underneath that.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-5m1l59Bfuxw/VPksfYqPC3I/AAAAAAAAEFU/DOBt4LHsDMM/s1600/IMG_3431.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-5m1l59Bfuxw/VPksfYqPC3I/AAAAAAAAEFU/DOBt4LHsDMM/s1600/IMG_3431.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Looks real short doesn't it?</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<h3>
Heater Cartridge Molex</h3>
<div class="seohtag" itemprop="model">
<span class="seohtagbold" itemprop="breadcrumb">We want our new heater wired exactly the same as our Ubis so we can easily swap it out.</span><br />
<br />
<span class="seohtagbold" itemprop="breadcrumb">Grab your Molex plug (0436400200 or</span> 0436400201) and two male pins (<span itemprop="name">0430310003</span>). If you only had access to the x0200 plug you should trim the wings off them now. Crimp your pins onto the wires as tightly as possible and push the pins into the plug. I used a needle nose pliers for the crimping but if you have a special tool or want to solder a little bit just to keep a solid connection that's fine.<br />
<br />
The pins that go into the plug do have a top and bottom so get to know your Molex. </div>
<div class="seohtag" itemprop="model">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ugNMMbBrPXI/VPkyZNKd3TI/AAAAAAAAEFo/ih8Rj3fdYrM/s1600/IMG_3442.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ugNMMbBrPXI/VPkyZNKd3TI/AAAAAAAAEFo/ih8Rj3fdYrM/s1600/IMG_3442.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I bought 4 pins because I knew I'd screw up</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-_4YI4FTAwkA/VPkyYZR7C0I/AAAAAAAAEFk/bOEVexCp-yQ/s1600/IMG_3443.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-_4YI4FTAwkA/VPkyYZR7C0I/AAAAAAAAEFk/bOEVexCp-yQ/s1600/IMG_3443.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The mounting points do remove quite cleanly</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<div class="seohtag" itemprop="model">
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<h3>
Wires Connected</h3>
Ready to find out if you've connected your wires properly? It is time to <a href="http://thisoldspoon.blogspot.com/2015/03/test-your-printrbots-new-hotend.html">test your hotend</a>.</div>
Spoon (Jim Lind)http://www.blogger.com/profile/01802214706659967893noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1912157028983075300.post-22416488913684755572015-03-02T00:00:00.000-08:002015-03-07T14:24:19.175-08:00Assembling your E3D v6 Hotend<i>Part of a series on <a href="http://thisoldspoon.blogspot.com/2015/03/e3d-v6-hotend-on-printrbot-simple-metal.html">installing the hotend</a>.</i><br />
<br />
<h3>
The Official Directions</h3>
The <a href="http://wiki.e3d-online.com/wiki/E3D-v6_Assembly">directions on the E3D wiki</a> are pretty good, but also generic because they need to accommodate for all kinds of different printers. You should give those directions a once over before going ahead with anything else. Follow the directions for HotSide, Thermistor, and Heater Cartridge but take a break after that.<br />
<h3>
Thermistor Wires & HeatSink</h3>
Just leave the short wires for now. We'll solder the long wires onto it later. Follow the directions about screwing on the HeatSink. That's normal.<br />
<h3>
PTFE Tubing</h3>
We'll want a real short piece of PTFE tubing. Just long enough to extend out of the hotend and touch the exact end of the adapter we printed previously. Make an estimate of how long you think it should be and cut it longer so you can trim it down. Put the PTFE tube in the hotend and attach your adapter. Trim the tube until the plastic of the adapter cleanly touches the hotend. I fount a hobby knife did a good job of cutting the tube cleanly.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-osmEMcXH65M/VPkoHiMxZDI/AAAAAAAAEE0/ZrPisYKJjfc/s1600/IMG_3428.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-osmEMcXH65M/VPkoHiMxZDI/AAAAAAAAEE0/ZrPisYKJjfc/s1600/IMG_3428.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">My PTFE tube was about 38mm long</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-OF3txVEPHmU/VPkohxOJumI/AAAAAAAAEE8/49wJkJUoSW8/s1600/IMG_3430.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-OF3txVEPHmU/VPkohxOJumI/AAAAAAAAEE8/49wJkJUoSW8/s1600/IMG_3430.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The PTFE tube should extend from the hotend</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<h3>
The Fan</h3>
First, my fan came with 4 screws, but only 3 screw holes. That's fine enough, but it's a slight variation from the directions. It'll come down to your personal preference on how you ultimately mount the fan. For me the bulge on the fan shroud worked best when on the bottom. It allowed me room to keep the wires and connectors on top of the fan and out of the way. Putting the wiring point on the upper outside point made it easier to put the wires into the harness.<br />
<br />
Here's a photo of my finished hotend with new Molex connectors. <b>Don't Freak Out. </b>I'll go over all the directions one at a time, but I thought you'd like to see how I mounted the fan on the final product. That should help you decide how to attach your fan at this point.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-yyu0ywijaMc/VPkpr9t-y6I/AAAAAAAAEFI/8RJ9_2sflU8/s1600/IMG_3458.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-yyu0ywijaMc/VPkpr9t-y6I/AAAAAAAAEFI/8RJ9_2sflU8/s1600/IMG_3458.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<h3>
Fan Attached, Next</h3>
Continue on to <a href="http://thisoldspoon.blogspot.com/2015/03/wiring-e3d-v6-hotend.html">Wiring your E3D v6 Hotend.</a>Spoon (Jim Lind)http://www.blogger.com/profile/01802214706659967893noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1912157028983075300.post-70558003430593440502015-03-01T00:00:00.000-08:002015-03-07T14:23:52.229-08:00Printing your E3D v6 Adapter for Printrbot Simple Metal<i>Part of a series on <a href="http://thisoldspoon.blogspot.com/2015/03/e3d-v6-hotend-on-printrbot-simple-metal.html">installing the hotend</a>.</i><br />
<br />
<h3>
Download the Adapter</h3>
Jimmy Hartanto (aka Aistaca) designed a simple perfect adapter for getting your new hotend to mate with your classic extruder. So hop on Thingiverse and download the <a href="http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:559657">E3D v6 Adapter for Printrbot Simple Metal by Aistaca</a> now. Yes Thingiverse is run by Takerbot, but the piece we want is Creative Commons because Aistaca is a good and generous human person.<br />
<h3>
Print it Several Times </h3>
Precision is key to this piece. I've you got the time and patience you'll want to try printing this piece until you get a perfect fit. Aistaca suggests just permanently gluing the adapter in place if you don't get a good fit, but I'm hoping to avoid that. I printed these adapters while I was waiting for the hotend to arrive.<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-cg2KvdxHSvQ/VPUM6JcUOwI/AAAAAAAAEC4/e7bORjbiN98/s1600/IMG_3397.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-cg2KvdxHSvQ/VPUM6JcUOwI/AAAAAAAAEC4/e7bORjbiN98/s1600/IMG_3397.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Did you print enough extras?</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Every printer and ever slicer seems to interact differently but I have found that Cura with a flow multiplier of 90% produces perfectly measured pieces for me so I printed 3 variations from Cura generated code. For me Slic3r seems to print everything just a little too fat. Pieces are a little too big and holes are a little too small so I printed 2 variations from Slic3r generated code just in case.<br />
<h3>
Glue It?</h3>
Like I said, I wanted to avoid gluing, but if you want to that's your choice. Maybe you only can manage to get one adapter printed and you need to make it work. It shouldn't be an issue. The hotend should stay super cool at the top so the glued contact isn't any different than unglued. Additionally, you are only gluing it to the heat sink so you could replace that cheaply if you wanted to upcycle your hotend for a different printer. <br />
<h3>
Test Fitting</h3>
At this point you should have your hotend. Not much you can do beyond here without it. You see the little black plastic nozzle thing at the top of your hotend? Your adapter is going to sit around it. It doesn't need a tight fitting there because it is not a support structure, but it'll help keep your adapter centered so it is important that it fits and is properly sized.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-DOJTnemEdQo/VPUZCZ9O1CI/AAAAAAAAEDI/z-VJdm_UNkw/s1600/IMG_3422.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-DOJTnemEdQo/VPUZCZ9O1CI/AAAAAAAAEDI/z-VJdm_UNkw/s1600/IMG_3422.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Yes, four adapters in this photo.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
You should have also got a length of PTFE tube with your shipment (it looks like a cheap straw). This will fit in the black plastic nozzle as well as your newly printed adapter. Try it in your adapter now and see if it fits. It should slide in and out cleanly without any hassle. Again this isn't a support structure, but it needs to stay centered. If the adapter fits over the black nozzle and the PTFE tube fits cleanly your print is good. If it doesn't, try again.<br />
<h3>
Fit in Your Printrbot</h3>
Make sure you hotend is cool, remove your Ubis hotend. and fit in the adapter. You might have to detach your extruder to get to all the pieces but it'll probably fit well. When your adapter is in the extruder there is a good amount of room for the E3D hotend to still make contact. It isn't a lot, but it is plenty.<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Qtdl0nbSlcM/VPUyZGZRqTI/AAAAAAAAEDc/7aLdD6UE1Kk/s1600/IMG_3425.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Qtdl0nbSlcM/VPUyZGZRqTI/AAAAAAAAEDc/7aLdD6UE1Kk/s1600/IMG_3425.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Loosen up this screw and the Ubis hot end should fall out.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-_1sa3qKa0G4/VPUyYl_644I/AAAAAAAAEDY/e-9oZ8t-FqA/s1600/IMG_3426.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-_1sa3qKa0G4/VPUyYl_644I/AAAAAAAAEDY/e-9oZ8t-FqA/s1600/IMG_3426.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">You can see here that the space below the adapter.</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
From here you can reattach your extruder, attach the hotend, and make sure the hotend is securely in place. If the hotend doesn't seem secure you can go one of three routes:<br />
<ol>
<li>Print a new smaller adapter.</li>
<li>File some bits off your printed adapter to make it smaller.</li>
<li>Glue the adapter to your hotend (see above).</li>
</ol>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-iZuUnjhKRTM/VPUyZrTkLVI/AAAAAAAAEDk/wl2mk8ijT2A/s1600/IMG_3427.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-iZuUnjhKRTM/VPUyZrTkLVI/AAAAAAAAEDk/wl2mk8ijT2A/s1600/IMG_3427.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Looking good in position.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<h3>
Adapter Done</h3>
Cool, now <a href="http://thisoldspoon.blogspot.com/2015/03/assembling-your-e3d-v6-hotend.html">continue to assemble the E3D v6.</a>Spoon (Jim Lind)http://www.blogger.com/profile/01802214706659967893noreply@blogger.com1